Kalamkari Art: An ancient art of storytelling on fabric

“Kalamkari is soulful storytelling - Where every brushstroke tells a tale and every hue whisper tradition”

Introduction

Kalamkari is an intricate textile art form which is characterised by block printing or freehand drawing using organic dyes. It is a three-thousand-year-old craft which originated from Telangana and Andhra Pradesh. Kalamkari is a distinctive blend of textile craftsmanship and storytelling, inspired by Indian mythology and Persian influences. Kalamkari is derived from the words "Kalam" and "Kari," where a rich motif is created with a pen. It is known for its vibrant colours and natural dyes, in which Bamboo or date palm sticks are used as brushes to draw distinct patterns. Detail design and rich storytelling in Kalamkari don’t just reflect cultural heritage, but also the exceptional craftsmanship and skills of the artisans.

This craft originated from folk storytellers drawing mythological scenes on canvas made from cloth, which later evolved into temple art. Under Mughal patronage, Qalamkars produced textiles that featured Persian influences and motifs, such as creepers and peacocks. This craft utilises organic dye and mordants (metallic salts) to fix the dye to the fabric (cotton fibre), which are essential for the craft. Kalamkari process involves 23 steps, starting from treating the cloth, sketching, dyeing, printing, washing multiple times, and adding gold or silver brocade work.

Origin of Kalamkari Art Form

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In ancient times, a large group of artisans was commissioned to paint narratives on large cloth, which was then adorned on the interior of temples. In ancient temple traditions, this painting served as a visual scripture, retelling stories from the Hindu epics, including the Mahabharata, the Ramayana, and the Bhagavata Purana. Under the patronage of the Vijayanagar kings, Kalamkari art was used to decorate temple chariots, the royal courtroom, and even the backdrops of deities. Temple-style paintings depicted figures such as Lakshmi, Shiva, and Durga, with the Tree of Life as a prominent symbol.

Kalamkari is a fusion of Persian aesthetics, especially in the Machilipatnam style. It featured Persian motifs, including intricate vine patterns, geometric designs, and floral arabesques. Kalamkari evidence dates back to temple murals and religious scrolls found in the Indus Valley civilisation. Kalamkari came under the rule of the Golconda sultanate and then the Mughal sultanate, which recognised its artistic depth. In this design, lotus, mango, palm, peacock, and elephant motifs were blended to create stunning patterns. Later, European traders, such as the British and the Dutch, further encouraged the export of Kalamkari, resulting in a new design that appealed to Western markets.

The Kalamkari art form declined in the mid-20th century, during which Srikalahasti lost its patronage. By 1950, only a few traditional artisans remained in this art form. It was later revived by Kamaladevi Chattopadhyaya, who established institutions for training artisans for preserving the Kalamkari technique. In the 1970s and 1980s, Nelly Sethna revived this art form by rediscovering traditional blocks and promoting design innovation for modern audiences.

Colour and Technique

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• In Srikalahasti, artisans derive organic dye from flowers, roots and bark. While pigment is derived from pomegranate peels and turmeric (yellow), madder root and alum (red), indigo leaves (Blue Dye), Indigo with turmeric (Green Dye), fermenting jaggery and iron rust (black). 
• Machilipatnam is influenced by Persian art, which uses intricate woodblock painting that involves vibrant colours. Srikalahasti emphasised delicate linework, a floral border, and detailed subjects, along with an earthy palette created from organic dyes.

Symbolism and themes in the Kalamkari art form

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• Mythological stories – Kalamkari art form has been used to depict stories from the Mahabharat, Ramayana and Puranas. It often featured stories of Shiva and Parvati; Devi Mahatamya, which comes alive through this art. 
• Borders and Mandalas – They often carry metaphysical meaning, which anchors storytelling and symbolic geometry. 
• Nature and fertility – Kalamkari painting includes nature motifs such as peacock, lotus, Elephants and the Tree of Life, which symbolise cosmic energy and spiritual abundance.

Different styles of Kalamkari styles

• Srikalahasti style (Freehand) Image source: deccanchronicle
  
  Srikalahasti style is a freehand painting technique where a Bamboo or Kalam with fine hair at the tip is used for drawing. This style is connected to religious or mythological themes, which depict stories from mythology or portraits of Hindu deities. The Srikalahasti style has been registered as a Geographical Indication (GI), which has made it a well-known art form. This style has been notably used in Pallus and Border on Saree. 
• Machilipatnam or Pedana style (Block printing) Image source: mapacademy
  
  Machilipatnam or Pedana style, originating from Andhra Pradesh, is a block printing method that utilises wooden stamps dipped in natural dye. They used vegetable dyes to ensure a natural texture on the fabric. This style features a floral motif inspired by Persian art, often incorporating elements such as birds, cartwheels, vines, and the Tree of Life. Pedna Kalamkari was awarded the GI tag in 2013. This art form is more decorative and used for home and fashion décor. It features repetitive and symmetrical patterns and appears on bedsheets, sarees, curtains and scarves. 
• Karuppur Kalamkari (Figurative Drawing) Image Source: pinterest
  
  This art form is prevalent in Tamil Nadu, where the first painting was patronised by Sevappa Nayak in 1540. This Kalamkari art form was used for canopies, wall hangings, door frames, panels, and other decorative purposes. This style uses a palm as a Kalam in which a preliminary sketch is made with a Tamarind stick. Fabric preparation includes treating the cloth with cow dung paste. After that it is starched with Malabar nut, rice and milk. This art form was used in temple ritual during the Panguni Uthiram festival. It featured relevant motifs such as peacocks, swans and Yazhi.

Process of the Kalamkari art form

The process of creating kalamkari requires utmost devotion, as it is a time-consuming endeavour. The following are steps performed while developing Kalamkari design: 

• Image Source:  caleidoscope
  
  Preparing Fabric – In this process, cotton fabric is mixed with bleach or cow dung, which removes impurities from the fabric. It is later sun-dried to set the base colour and enhance the fabric's ability to absorb dyes.
• Sketch outline – Srikalahasti style uses freehand to draw intricate designs and floral patterns using a Bamboo pen. In this process, this Kalam is used for accurate precision and capturing the essence of motifs.
• Preparing Dye – Kalamkari use natural dye, so colours are derived from organic material. These colours are boiled in batches whose recipe is handed down through generations. • Colour filling – Kalam is then used to draw a design or fill in colours appropriately. Every layer is dried and then fixed before other design can be applied. It helps retain colour clarity and prevents bleeding.
• Final washing – At last, fabric is washed with flowing water to get rid of excess dye. After it is dried, the final touches are applied, which define lines, deepen contrast, and refine the product's end details.

Cultural Significance of Kalamkari Painting

Kalamkari holds special importance in South Indian temples, where it is used to depict sacred narratives and Hindu deities. Large Kalamkari scrolls were commissioned by patrons and temple priests, which featured a backdrop of storytelling and rituals. These paintings were adorned on the temple walls, and devotees believed that they had divine energy. It became an essential part of religious ceremonies and traditions that enhance their devotional experience.

Kalamkari in modern design

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Kalamkari is an ancient art form that continues to inspire new-age designers and fashion enthusiasts alike. Natural dyeing techniques and intricate hand-painted motifs have made this art popular. Over time, Kalamkari has evolved from temple cloths and scrolls to high-end fashion garments and décor items. This art form has evolved but still retains its old charm. Kalamkari art is renowned for its earthy tones and is used to create a wide range of items, including shirts, skirts, dresses, pants, scarves, coverlets, and wall hanging crafts.

Kalamkari as a storytelling medium

Kalamkari served as a medium for visual storytelling during an era when oral traditions were the primary means of communication. Travel artists often painted on cloth scrolls to narrate folklore or epics to local people. Kalamkari artworks functioned like a graphic manuscript where each scene was unfolded in sequence. This craft featured expressive figures and intricate details, which became the centre of attraction to people. It helped them engage with historical and sacred texts. Kalamkari, as a tradition, has helped preserve the cultural and mythological heritage passed down through generations of artists.

Kalamkari as an Eco-friendly craft

Kalamkari utilises biodegradable materials in its art preparation, resulting in zero chemical waste. This technique utilises dye made from organic materials and works on natural cotton or silk fabric, making it a sustainable craft. Kalamkari is done in two types – one uses freehand drawing, and the other uses a wooden block to print on cotton fabric. Both styles adhere to the principle of sustainable fashion, where products are designed for long-term use. It is an authentic craft that uses local materials and supports indigenous artisans. Natriel's mission is to empower local Indian artisans and promote sustainability, which is why Kalamkari aligns with it, as it focuses on creating planet-friendly products.

Global appreciation of the Kalamkari art form

Image source: Timesofindia

Kalamkari has garnered significant attention worldwide for its notable contributions to the art world. Collaboration with renowned artists and international exhibitions has exposed Kalamkari to a large audience and made it collectable for art lovers. Kalamkari art continues to inspire art enthusiasts and draw appreciation from art lovers worldwide, leaving a lasting legacy for future generations.

Reason for choosing Kalamkari Handicraft

• Empowering rural artisans – Kalamkari is a renowned handicraft brand which empowers rural artisans. It is an ancient craft that has been passed down through generations. It serves as an income source for rural artisans, especially women, which is a compelling reason to choose this craft and incorporate it into your home. 
• Preserve dying cultural heritage – Kalamkari is a dying art form as fewer people purchase this art form. Lower sales have a significant impact on the livelihoods of rural people. This forces them to find alternative ways of making a living, which results in fewer skilled artisans in the community. 
• Reduce carbon footprint – Kalamkari used organic material to make temple cloth, scrolls or ritual wear. This process utilises sustainable materials that have minimal or no impact on the environment, making it a viable slow fashion product. 
• Add cultural depth to wardrobe – Kalamkari is a rich cultural craft which features unique designs and elegant motifs. Adding Kalamkari designs to your wardrobe will add depth and richness to your style. Each Kalamkari is a unique piece with roots in India's rich legacy.

Conclusion

Kalamkari is a revered textile art that combines exceptional craftsmanship, rich cultural heritage, and a profound history. Kalamkari uses indigenous tools and natural dyes from organic materials to create artwork on cloth. Kalamkari is renowned for its use of natural and organic materials, employing a chemical-free and sustainable approach. Kalamkari has emerged as an ideal craft that utilises vibrant colours and organic materials. Kalamkari is a timeless art form that has adapted well to modern trends, from temple cloth to sarees and dupattas.

Explore exclusive Natriel Indian Handicraft products here. Natriel is a handicraft brand which supports skilled artisans in India. Natriel offers products in various categories, including Home Décor, Kitchen and Dining, Spirituality, Aroma, Workspace Accessories, and Premium Gifting. Natriel customises products and provides bulk ordering for festive and corporate gifting.